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Episode 53: Everest Coverage: Icefall Holdup and South Side Action
With the 2026 Everest season officially underway, Sam and Adrian kick off what will be four consecutive episodes of armchair mountaineering — a first for Adrian, who for most of the last two decades has been on the mountain rather than watching from home. It's a unique vantage point, and one he's leaning into fully.
Before diving into Everest, the guys pay tribute to Jim Whittaker, the first American to summit Everest in 1963, whose passing was announced recently at the age of 97. Adrian reflects on Whittaker's outsized influence on American mountain guiding culture — from his early days at REI to his brother Lou's founding of RMI, the institution that shaped a generation of guides and guide companies across the country. Sam also circles back on a story that slipped through the cracks last episode: Cody Townsend and Tommy Caldwell's first ski-climb winter traverse of Norman's 13 in the Eastern Sierra — an eight-day, 40,000-foot suffer fest that Adrian and Sam dig into with obvious admiration.
From there, Sam and Adrian cover the following topics from the opening weeks of the 2026 Everest season:
Early Summits on Annapurna, Dhaulagiri, and Makalu: What's driving the trend of climbers targeting multiple 8,000-meter peaks in a single season, and what the logistical and safety implications of that strategy actually look like on the ground.
Khumbu Icefall Delays: A threatening serac has delayed route fixing through the icefall, pushing the season's timeline later than ideal. Adrian provides important context on where the serac likely is, why the media narrative may be off, and what the icefall doctors' cautious approach actually signals.
Topo Mena on the South Side: Alpenglow guide Topo Mena is heading to Everest's south side with a small, fast team through Pemba Gelje's Expeditions High Mountain — and Adrian explains why this trip is as much an information-gathering mission for Alpenglow's future south side decision-making as it is a personal guiding trip for Topo and Carla.
Ryan Mitchell and the Oxygen Debate: A Minecraft-turned-mountaineer's medical emergency at base camp sparks a broader conversation about what it actually means to climb Everest without supplemental oxygen, where the line is, and how oxygen compares to other forms of aid on the mountain.
Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.
Episode 52: What does it mean to be a Mountain Guide?
With a string of high-profile guiding accidents making headlines this winter — including close to home here in Tahoe — Sam and Adrian sit down to dig into what it actually means to be a mountain guide, how guide companies are held accountable, and what you, as a consumer, should be looking for before you hire someone to take you into the mountains.
Before diving in, Adrian shares a personal update: a fractured back sustained in a sport climbing fall at Starwall that has him sidelined for the spring. Ever the risk management thinker, he unpacks the decision-making lapse that led to the accident and what the takeaway actually is. Sam, freshly back from a family ski trip to Davos, also weighs in on a developing fraud story out of Nepal in which rescue companies are alleged to have poisoned clients with baking soda to trigger fraudulent helicopter rescues — and why the distinction between mountain guides and high-altitude workers matters enormously in that conversation.
From there, Sam and Adrian turn to the main event: a wide-ranging conversation on guiding, certification, and accreditation.
What Is a Mountain Guide?: Why the term is so contested in the US versus Europe, and why the semantics actually matter for clients trying to evaluate who they're hiring.
Certification: How the AMGA certification and scope of practice system works, where Sam sits in that process, and why the gold standard is both certification and experience — not one without the other.
Accreditation: What AMGA accreditation means for guide companies, why only 32 businesses in the US have achieved it, and why Adrian believes it should become the industry standard — not the exception.
The Client's Role: Why the best guided experiences are partnerships, and why showing up as an active participant — not just a passenger — matters regardless of how qualified your guide is.
Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.
Episode 51: Will this season on Everest's South side be the busiest yet?
With the 2026 Everest season just around the corner, Sam and Adrian sit down to preview what's shaping up to be one of the most consequential years in the mountain's modern climbing history.
While Alpenglow Expeditions has made the decision not to pivot its north side operation to the south side following the closure of the Tibetan route, Adrian's deep familiarity with both sides of the mountain gives him a uniquely informed perspective on what the season ahead holds. Between insider knowledge from the guiding community and the ever-reliable Sherpa grapevine, Adrian and Sam have plenty to say that hasn't yet made it into the mainstream conversation.
Sam and Adrian talk about the following storylines heading into the 2026 Everest Season:
North Side Closure: The Tibet side of Everest has been closed to international teams this season, sending a wave of expeditions scrambling to pivot to the Nepal side — and setting up what could be the busiest south side season in history.
Alpenglow's Decision: After a 90-minute internal meeting, Alpenglow chose not to redirect their north side operation southward, citing concerns about Khumbu Icefall dangers and the growing number of inexperienced climbers and operators on the south side route.
Notable Expeditions: FKT attempts, no-oxygen ascents, and sea-to-summit adventures are among the compelling storylines worth watching as the season gets underway.
Guiding & Regulation: Adrian and Sam make the case that the industry's focus on client experience requirements misses the bigger issue — the need for stronger regulation of guide companies themselves.
The Everest Experience: Whatever your style or approach, the guys take a moment to reflect on what makes climbing the world's highest mountain so enduringly extraordinary.
Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.
Episode 49: How David Goettler's Introduction to Alpine Climbing Defined His Style for Decades at the Top
David Goettler has been a professional alpinist for nearly 3 decades, and part of The North Face athlete team his entire career. With a focus on classical alpine style climbing on the highest peaks of the world, David has set out on a quest to climb in the way that suits him.
For David, climbing the tallest peaks of the world is a dream, and the challenge is in their height. Climbing without supplemental oxygen and Sherpa support above basecamp is the only way for him to truly test his abilities.
- David has successfully summited seven 8,000m peaks without supplemental oxygen, many of which required multiple attempts. On his fifth attempt of Nanga Parbat in Pakistan in 2025, David summited via the Schell Route and descended by Paraglider from 7,700m on the mountain.
- David has gone on expeditions with countless partners, and the list includes some of the most notable alpinists in the last 3 decades. For David, finding the right partners for his objectives is almost as calculated as the climb itself.
- While David believes that all professional alpinists should be climbing without supplemental oxygen and sherpa support, he recognizes that for non-professionals, just being in the mountains is what's important, and style should be chosen based on what each individual is seeking.
To learn more about David Goettler, follow him on Instagram @david_goettler.
Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.
Episode 47: Mt. Everest - The Tallest Mountain on the Planet
The sixth in our series on the Seven Summits, Carstensz Pyramid, is the tallest peak within Oceania. While some Seven Summits lists include Mount Kosciuszko in Australia, most modern lists acknowledge Carstensz Pyramid due to its higher altitude and increased technical challenge. Locally known as Puncak Jaya, the peak sits at 4,884m or 16,024 feet above sea level, on the island of New Guinea.
Unlike all other peaks on the list of seven summits, Carstensz Pyramid is a true rock climb, where climbers ascend a limestone ridgeline with both vertical walls and exposed traverses.
- Much of the climb has been fixed with ropes, including a span which now has a cable bridge, to accommodate the number of climbers looking to climb the mountain and prevent issues of overcrowding.
- Due to it's relatively low altitude, as compared to it's counterparts, climbing Carstensz is generally quite quick, and much of the true adventure lies in the many-day trek through the jungle to reach the base of the peak.
- Unfortunately, with a long history of unrest in the jungle, it has become standard to heli into basecamp for your climb. With ethnic tribal conflicts and civil disturbances, it's no longer feasible to trek through the jungle.
Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about our guests and us. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.
Episode 45: Vinson Massif - The Last Great Challenge
On Episode 45 of the Duffel Shuffle Podcast, Sam and Adrian head to the bottom of the world to discuss the Vinson Massif. This is the fifth episode in the series covering each of the Seven Summits, and while Vinson lacks some of the culture of previous mountains discussed, it makes up for that in the uniqueness of the adventure.
First climbed in 1966, Vinson is known by Seven Summit climbers as "The Last Great Challenge" as it was the final peak climbed by the first to complete the seven tallest summits on each continent. While not particularly challenging, Vinson is notable for its logistical complexity as well as extreme temperatures.
- Due to its relatively low altitude of 4,892m (16,050'), Vinson expeditions can theoretically be completed in a matter of days. That said, most expeditions last 2-3 weeks to allow for the logistics to fall into place, which can be severely delayed by weather and other factors.
- All Vinson logistics are managed by Antarctic Logistics and Expeditions (ALE), whose strict risk management practices have led to an incredibly high safety and success rate.
- A Vinson expedition requires a high level of mountain independence, primarily to manage the challenges of cold. As such, it's a great peak to follow Everest or Denali, and can also be easily combined with climbing Aconcagua.
Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about our guests and us. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.
Episode 44: Kilimanjaro - The Roof of Africa
Our next episode in the Seven Summits series takes us to Africa, and we're talking about Mount Kilimanjaro. What is arguably the most culturally enriching experience of all of the Seven Summits, Kili is the most accessible of the tallest peaks on each continent.
Sam and Adrian chat about Kilimanjaro and all of the ins and outs. While Kili's technical challenge is nonexistent, the specifics around how the mountain is climbed are quite particular.
- All climbers on Kilimanjaro must climb with a local operator. This mandates that climbers support the local economy by hiring a fixed number of support staff.
- While Kilimanjaro does have a rainy season in the spring, and a shorter period of rain in the fall, it can be climbed virtually year-round. That, combined with the lack of technical challenge, means that Kilimanjaro is far from a wilderness experience as we know it, and hundreds of climbers, guides, porters, and cooks will be on the mountain with you.
- Climbing Kilimanjaro is still a feat and an incredible experience in itself, but if you go all the way to Africa and skip the Safari, you're just crazy. Adding a 3-5 day Safari is an incredible way to culminate your climbing trip. And if you're looking for even more, head on to Zanzibar!
Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.
Episode 43: Mt. Elbrus - Vodka and Altitude
Episode 3 of the Seven Summits Series takes us to the tallest point in Europe, Mount Elbrus. With first ascents on each of the two summits, both occurring in the 1800s, Elbrus' history is both lengthy and, at times, entertaining.
Adrian and Sam dive into the details of a Mount Elbrus expedition, which includes so much more than just climbing. While Elbrus is well-positioned for a strike mission type attempt due to its relatively low altitude (as far as high altitude goes) and significant on-mountain infrastructure, climbing Elbrus should most certainly include time exploring Russia.
- Visiting both St. Petersburg and Moscow during your trip adds time, but they are crucial parts of the experience, and one city can be visited before and the other after you climb.
- Elbrus is unique in the Seven Summits world in that it has significant infrastructure, including lift systems that are part of a ski area and snow cats that can take climbers as far as ~90% of the way to the top. Find the style of climb that suits you and gets you excited!
- Like most of the Seven Summits, Elbrus can experience challenging weather, and while the route is often considered "straightforward" because Snowcats create a road, hazards such as crevasses should not be underestimated.
Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.
Episode 42: Denali - The High One
Our second episode in the Seven Summits Series centers on Denali. An Athabaskan word meaning "the high one," Denali is the tallest peak in North America, sitting at 20,310'. Measured from its base to its summit, Denali has a larger vertical rise than Everest, making it the tallest land-based mountain on Earth by that measurement.
Sam and Adrian dive into some of the unique characteristics of Denali. Despite being only climbed once between the two of them (Adrian in the early 2000s), countless colleagues have shared insight after insight on Denali.
- Adrian shares a bit about his early 2000s trip to Denali, with original intentions to climb the West Rib.
- Most climbers ascend the West Buttress route, but the mountain holds countless other amazing routes, many of which are more technical, as well as world-class ski and snowboard descents.
- With restrictive guiding limitations set by the National Park, Denali climbs have followed a traditional style, but much opportunity exists for different styles, like fast and light missions using pre-acclimatization.
Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.
Episode 41: Aconcagua, the Roof of the Americas
The Duffel Shuffle podcast is kicking off a 7-Episode series, covering all things seven summits. Popularized, and first completed, by Dick Bass, the 7 Summits List is comprised of the tallest mountain on each of the 7 continents of the world. These include, in order of height, Everest (Asia), Aconcagua (S. America), Denali (N. America), Kilimanjaro (Africa), Mount Elbrus (Europe) and Australia/Oceania (Mount Kosciuszko/Puncak Jaya).
Adrian and Sam start with Aconcagua, the tallest mountain outside of the Himalaya, and the tallest peak in South America. Aconcagua, which was first climbed in 1897, sees approximately, 3,000-4,000 attempts annually, with a success rate of roughly 30-40%. Considering the altitude, challenging weather and incredibly short climbing season, Aconcagua is no walk in the park!
- Nearing 23,000' or 7,000m in elevation, Aconcagua is an excellent place for climbers to test themselves at an altitude that isn't found anywhere else, outside of the Himalaya.
- While the technical challenge on Aconcagua is quite low, each season brings a number of accidents and near misses due to unprepared climbers and challenging weather and wind.
- Equipment choices on Aconcagua can be the difference between success and failure, and many cold weather items are really only needed on the summit.
Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.
Episode 40: The Key to Successful First Descents with Christina Lustenberger and Guillaume Pierrel
Together, Christina "Lusti" Lustenberger and Guillaume "Gee" Pierrel have teamed up for some of the most notable and impressive first descents in recent years.
Lusti is an Association of Canadian Mountain Guides (ACMG) Ski Guide and professional skier. A career that started with alpine ski racing took Lusti all the way to the Olympics, but more than five knee surgeries later, a career pivot has taken her to ski some of the most impressive and challenging lines around the world.
Gee, a french IFMGA Mountain Guide, got his start on skis through Nordic racing, but a love for the outdoors and the mountains brought him full circle. He too made a career pivot in his 20's, and what started out as ski instruction eventually led him to guide certification.
Lusti and Gee join Sam and Adrian together, to talk about the partnership they've developed and the keys to their success in the mountains:
- With their first big mountain experiences on New Zealand's Mt. Cook in October 2024, Lusti and Gee recount their first descent on the mountain.
- Following their success in New Zealand, Lusti invited Gee to join her on a more-than-a-decades long project on Canada's Mt. Robson.
- With the ultimate partnership developed, and technical skills that complement each other nicely, Lusti and Gee have the ultimate potential to push forward the sport of Ski Mountaineering.
Lusti and Gee's latest film, Robson, debuts at the Banff Mountain Film Festival on November 1. To learn more about Lusti and Gee, and follow their adventures, find them on Instagram @christinalusti and @geepierrel.
Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.
Episode 39: Should You Climb Everest in Autumn?
Sam and Adrian connect for Episode 39 of the Duffel Shuffle Podcast to discuss the fall season in the Himalaya and, in particular, two athletes with specific objectives on Everest.
With a break in guests for the show, Sam and Adrian used this week’s episode to catch up on a few items.
- Adrian is tuning in while attending the Black Diamond Athlete Summit, so we took the opportunity to learn more. Athlete Summit’s are a popular event among brands, but there’s not much info about them for the average consumer, so we use this opportunity to deep dive and learn more.
- With the Autumn season on Everest wrapping up, Sam and Adrian discuss the two special projects that took place this season; Tyler Andrews was unfortunately unsuccessful in two attempts to set the FKT on Everest while Andrzej Bargeil successfully submitted and skied off Everest, without supplemental oxygen, in his third attempt.
- Despite a tricky season with short weather window's other fall 8,000ers in the Himalaya, many commercial operators had success on Manaslu, with fewer successful on Cho Oyu due to fewer climbers for political reasons.
Upcoming, we’ll be launching a 7 episode series to deep-dive into all aspects of each of the seven summits. We’ll be following the format of Episode 36 “K2: The Savage Mountain” and unpacking all the important information about the tallest peaks on every continent. Stay tuned!
Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.
Episode 36 - K2: The Savage Mountain
George Bell, a climber on the 1953 American Expedition to K2 said "It's a savage mountain that tries to kill you." Nearly than 75 years later, the reputation is intact. Adrian successfully climbed K2, without supplemental oxygen, in 2019, doubling down on his no o2 ascent of Everest in 2017.
With decades of experience climbing and guiding clients throughout the Himalaya, Adrian has spent little time in the Karakoram, and has only climbed K2 once. Following the 2025 K2 climbing season, Sam and Adrian connect to break down K2, and discuss Adrian's take on the mountain as well as his experience.
- Adrian shares his description of the route, starting with the trek in. Not only does he talk about some of the main features of the mountain, but he also discusses the famed objective hazards, from GI bugs to the Bottleneck Serac.
- Adrian shares a bit about why he's avoided K2 for most of his career, and how a tragic accident in 2008 took the life of a good friend, deterring him from the mountain for many years.
- Despite being supported by Topo Mena, who too has dreams of climbing K2 without oxygen, Adrian shares the one route on the mountain that he would climb, if it were possible.
Adrian's film, Breathtaking: K2 - The World's Most Dangerous Mountain, can be found on youtube.
Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.
Episode 33 with Billi Bierling: Mt. Everest’s Record Keeper
In such a storied climbing region like the Himalaya, recording the history of the people who have climbed there and the summits they reached is vital. In this Episode of the Duffel Shuffle Podcast, Adrian sits down with Billi Bierling, the current director of the Himalayan Database, the go-to historical database of climbing in the Himalaya, to discuss Everest, modern high altitude climbing, and the life of the Himalayan Database.
Billi is a renowned journalist, high-altitude climber, and has been the director of the Himalayan Database since 2016, taking over after its founder, Elizabeth Hawley. With ascents of major peaks including Mount Everest, Manaslu, Cho Oyu, and Lhotse — Bierling brings both credibility and firsthand experience to her work. Bierling has been instrumental in expanding the reach and accessibility of the database, ensuring it remains a vital resource for climbers, researchers, and historians alike.
- Billi and Adrian talk about the Himalayan Database and the History of Everest.
- Billi shares about her time spent in Kathmandu and her own passion for mountaineering
- Adrian and Billi chat about Everest, the ever-changing dynamics of modern high-altitude mountaineering, and climbing without oxygen.
You can learn more about the Himalayan Database at https://www.himalayandatabase.com/. And you can follow along with Billi at her website; https://billibierling.com/, or follow her on Instagram @billi_bierling.
Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.
Episode 32 with Mike Pond: The Life of a Mountain Guide, From the Tahoe Via to Mount Everest
In this episode of the Duffle Shuffle, we dive into the life of a mountain guide who guides everything from the Tahoe Via Ferrata in Olympic Valley, CA, to the summit of Mount Everest. Mike Pond is a career mountain guide who has spent his life climbing and guiding on mountains all over the world. At Alpenglow, he guides across the entirety of its programming, from rock climbing and the via ferrata, to high-altitude mountains in the Himalaya and beyond.
In this episode, we'll talk about balancing life as a father, husband, and mountain guide, the diversity of climbing guiding that can be done, and Mike's experience climbing on Everest.
You can follow Mike on Instagram at @mikepondclimbs. And you can check out his salve skin care product, Booboo butter, at the Alpenglow Office!
Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.
Episode 31: Is Xenon Gas the Future of Climbing Everest?
Following a successful Everest expedition in which Adrian successfully reached the summit for the 10th time, Sam and Adrian catch up to cover some of the notable storylines from the season.
While much of the 'action' occurs on the South side of the mountain, a route that Alpenglow does not climb, Adrian has such intimate knowledge of both sides that his perspective is unique. Additionally, between mountain guide gossip and the Sherpa grapevine, a lot if information gets passed without percolating to the mainstream media, some of which we get an inside scoop on in this episode.
Sam and Adrian talk about the following storylines from the 2025 Everest Season:
- Deaths and Rescues: While the 5 fatalities on the south side of the mountain (and zero on the North side) is a relatively low number as compared to recent seasons, rescues and near-misses reached record highs.
- Anja Blancha: One of only two successful no oxygen summits of Everest this season was achieved by the German climber, her 12th of 14 8,000ers without supplemental O2.
- FKT Attempts: Neither Karl Egloff nor Tyler Andrews were successful in reaching the summit of Everest, both of whom set out for Fastest Known Times.
- Xenon Climbers: Arguably the story of the season, Furtenbach Adventures' Flash Ascent of Everest using Xenon Gas was successful, but is Xenon really the future of climbing the tallest peaks around the world?
Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.
Episode 30 with Topo Mena: Catching Up on Everest from Base Camp
Adrian Ballinger and the Alpenglow Expedition team had success on Everest! First, Sam and Adrian had a chance to catch up briefly following Adrian's 10th summit of the tallest mountain in the world. In this episode of The Duffel Shuffle, the two touch base with Esteban "Topo" Mena, Alpenglow's co-expedition leader, from base camp on the North Side of Mount Everest before Alpenglow's summit push.
Topo Mena is an IFMGA guide, Black Diamond Athlete and an inspiration to many. Topo’s accomplishments include many summits of 8,000m peaks, including multiple on Everest as well as K2, Gasherbrum I, Gasherbrum II, Cho Oyu, Makalu, and Manaslu, as well as more than 250 summits of Cotopaxi in his home country of Ecuador. Topo has participated in grade VI first ascents in the Himalayas and in the Tien Shan, unsupported ascents without supplementary oxygen of 8000m peaks (including Mount Everest in 2013 at age 23 during his first expedition to the mountain), and numerous ascents pursuing difficulty or speed in his beloved Andes, or in the Himalayas, Karakorum, Alps, Tien Shan, Pamirs and Antarctica.
Following up on Episode 2 of the Duffel Shuffle, Sam and Adrian check back with Topo to hear about his recovery, and how he perceives his return to "100%".
- Topo talks about his role as Co-Expedition Leader alongside Adrian with Alpenglow Expeditions' Everest Team.
- Topo shares a bit about the importance of a strong team on Everest, and how being co-expedition leader alongside such a strong team of guides makes the role easy.
- Topo talks about his personal climbing goals, and his continued focus on opening a new route on Mt Everest.
You can learn more about Topo on Instagram, @estebantopomena, and through his sponsor https://blackdiamondequipment.com/blogs/athletes/esteban-topo-mena.
Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.
Episode 29: Ask Adrian Anything—Live from Everest Base Camp
Adrian Ballinger is joining us live from base camp on the North Side of Mount Everest. We've collected more than 30 questions from you, the audience, over the past months, and now it is time to rapid fire answer as many as we can.
With questions all across the board, we cover the following topics:
- Everest costs, financial requirements and alternatives
- Training and physical preparation for Everest and other climbing goals
- How to progress as a climber, and comparing different training grounds
- Mentorship and how to develop your personal climbing mindset
- Routes, risk and other strategies
- Acclimatization and other health factors
- Equipment, food and staying comfortable
- Sustainability and ethics
A huge thank you to those who submitted questions. We're stoked to interact with our audience, and ensure the content we're putting out is of interest to you! If you have further questions, DM us on Instagram, comment on our posts, or leave us a message on our YouTube episodes; we love hearing from you!
Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.
Episode 28 with Melissa Arnot Reid: More Than Just an Everest Guide
Melissa Arnot Reid is not only a mountain guide, speaker and author, but she's also an athlete. Melissa is the first American woman to successfully summit and descend Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen, a peak she has climbed a total of 6 times throughout her career.
Melissa's new book, Enough: Climbing Toward a True Self on Mount Everest, released on April 1, and we had a chance to connect with her following the launch to learn more.
- The three kick off their conversation with a bit of talk about running and Melissa's current running endeavors.
- Melissa shares a bit about her book, the process of writing, the importance in her own healing journey, and the origins of the title Enough.
- Melissa dives into her mountain experiences as a child, how she found her way into guiding through RMI, and some of the challenges of being a women in a predominantly male industry.
- Melissa catches us up on life today, and raising two kids by two working mountain guide parents.
You can learn more about Melissa on Instagram, @melissaarnot, and through her website www.melissaarnot.com/. Melissa's new book, Enough: Climbing Toward a True Self on Mount Everest, can be found wherever you buy your books, including on Amazon.
Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.
Episode 26 with Garrett Madison: A Life of Expeditions, From Everest to K2
Garrett Madison is considered to be one of America's premier Everest guides. In addition to leading nearly 100 clients to the summit of Mt. Everest, Garrett has made a lasting impact on the world of expedition climbing in the Himalaya and Karakoram, with notable firsts including the first guided climbs of K2 and guided linkups of Everest and Lhotse.
Prior to departing for the 2025 Everest season, Garrett joined Sam and Adrian on episode 26 of the Duffel Shuffle Podcast. Garrett shares his journey to becoming a guide, and the incredible opportunities he's had throughout his career.
- Garrett's initial interest in becoming a guide started on Mt. Rainier, where he got his start in the profession through hundreds of ascents in his early years as a guide.
- Garrett shares his experience with guide certification, and how his career has followed a path in which formal training/certification has not been necessary.
- Garrett talks about what he's seen change in the industry, and how he's focused on mitigating the negative impacts around the increase in number of climbers each season.
You can learn more about Garrett on Instagram, @garrettmadison1 and through his business, Madison Mountaineering, on Instagram @madisonmtng and online at www.madisonmountaineering.com. To learn more about his foundation, visit www.madisonmountaineering.com/foundation.
Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.