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Episode 67: Matt Segal: Pushing the Limits of Trad Climbing and Surviving a Near-Death Accident
On Episode 66, Sam and Adrian open with quick hits on early-season snow stoke and Andrzej Bargiel calling off his Dhaulagiri ski attempt before sitting down with IFMGA mountain guide, avalanche educator, and Black Diamond athlete Angela Hawse. Angela traces her path from Prescott College and Outward Bound to the American Alpine Institute, five seasons on Denali, and nine seasons heli-ski guiding in the San Juans. - In 2010 she became the 60th IFMGA guide in the US and only the sixth woman, and she has since helped lead the AMGA and served on the IFMGA technical commission. She breaks down how the American modular training system compares to Europe's entry-exam model, and why early mentorship from Kathy Cosley taught her to guide like herself rather than like the bigger guys around her. - The conversation turns to risk management, how climate change is tightening margins and making past experience less reliable, and her new short film with Protect Our Winters, Black Diamond, and Polar Bears International, Mountain Guides: Barometers of Change (watch it here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7dnnDO-SS6A). - Plus: a 1993 Pakistan duffel saga that ends with her pack in Hong Kong, and why she took up skateboarding three years ago. Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit https://alpenglowexpeditions.com/ or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.
Episode 66: Angela Hawse: Three Decades of Guiding, Risk, and a Changing Climate
On Episode 66, Sam and Adrian open with quick hits on early-season snow stoke and Andrzej Bargiel calling off his Dhaulagiri ski attempt before sitting down with IFMGA mountain guide, avalanche educator, and Black Diamond athlete Angela Hawse. Angela traces her path from Prescott College and Outward Bound to the American Alpine Institute, five seasons on Denali, and nine seasons heli-ski guiding in the San Juans. - In 2010 she became the 60th IFMGA guide in the US and only the sixth woman, and she has since helped lead the AMGA and served on the IFMGA technical commission. She breaks down how the American modular training system compares to Europe's entry-exam model, and why early mentorship from Kathy Cosley taught her to guide like herself rather than like the bigger guys around her. - The conversation turns to risk management, how climate change is tightening margins and making past experience less reliable, and her new short film with Protect Our Winters, Black Diamond, and Polar Bears International, Mountain Guides: Barometers of Change (watch it here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7dnnDO-SS6A). - Plus: a 1993 Pakistan duffel saga that ends with her pack in Hong Kong, and why she took up skateboarding three years ago. Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit https://alpenglowexpeditions.com/ or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.
Episode 39: Should You Climb Everest in Autumn?
Sam and Adrian connect for Episode 39 of the Duffel Shuffle Podcast to discuss the fall season in the Himalaya and, in particular, two athletes with specific objectives on Everest.
With a break in guests for the show, Sam and Adrian used this week’s episode to catch up on a few items.
- Adrian is tuning in while attending the Black Diamond Athlete Summit, so we took the opportunity to learn more. Athlete Summit’s are a popular event among brands, but there’s not much info about them for the average consumer, so we use this opportunity to deep dive and learn more.
- With the Autumn season on Everest wrapping up, Sam and Adrian discuss the two special projects that took place this season; Tyler Andrews was unfortunately unsuccessful in two attempts to set the FKT on Everest while Andrzej Bargeil successfully submitted and skied off Everest, without supplemental oxygen, in his third attempt.
- Despite a tricky season with short weather window's other fall 8,000ers in the Himalaya, many commercial operators had success on Manaslu, with fewer successful on Cho Oyu due to fewer climbers for political reasons.
Upcoming, we’ll be launching a 7 episode series to deep-dive into all aspects of each of the seven summits. We’ll be following the format of Episode 36 “K2: The Savage Mountain” and unpacking all the important information about the tallest peaks on every continent. Stay tuned!
Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.